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#epoxy

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Finishing the underside of the top step of the garage entrance.

I have painted the cross braces with NicPro epoxy. Leftover epoxy went on parts of the main boards. These boards are covered mostly with a mixture of NicPro epoxy and chopped fiberglass. The spaces between the boards are filled with NicPro epoxy pigmented glow-in-the-dark green.

The main boards are yellow pine 2×6 (with some planing to correct for curvature in a poor choice of one board). The cross braces are scraps of black ash, probably from production runs of 1×2 for cutting boards or 1×1 for pen turning. (I have made an edge grain cutting board from such scraps. The grain is open so I used tung oil to partly fill it in. But cherry or maple is better.)

I almost forgot: the very ends are covered mostly with Yieho UV resin. This makes up for some serious disasters I created along the way, involving overflows of epoxy onto the kitchen floor.

The curing rates of UV resins using the means advertised by the sellers is exaggerated. I suggest making ample use of sunny days. But what I used here is also very good. I used an expensive Lumenshooter UV flashlight, and instead of the garbage batteries that came with it I have two LBF 21700 5000mAh 3.7V Li-ion rechargeable batteries. Unlike the OEM batteries, these require no charger. They have USB-C ports for recharging. They are slightly larger, but fit. It is an unusual battery format, as is that of the slightly smaller OEM battery.

With this flashlight, curing usually takes seconds. The resin gets quite hot.

There are also Japanese wooden nails and CA glue in the connection between boards and braces. The nails are made of beech.

#epoxy #epoxyResin #UVResin #woodworking #alt4Me

How to remove/demold a part from a fragile part. (Hint: You can create shear in more than one way, and it may be better than creating a peeling action with hammer and chisel.)

The blue Styrofoam that served as the form will be destroyed as it's removed from the fiberglass wingtip weel, but it's a one-off form/mold that lacked any taper.

(This is a follow up to universeodon.com/@KrajciTom/11 )

#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Wing #Epoxy #Fiberglass #Composite #Shear #Peel

Making a custom wingtip wheel for my glider's right wing.

The bottom of the wingtip was covered with clear packing tape, then lightly waxed.

Hot glue temporarily attached the blue Styrofoam mold/form, which also contains the 60mm diameter roller blade wheel.

The part is made from seven plies of 7725 weave fiberglass that will be cut into a triangular shape after wetting with epoxy.

No vacuum bag, so this is a hand lay up. I had to use some small pieces of metal to coax the fiberglass to stay in the correct place.

The garage will be heated overnight so that the part cures, then some tugging and a rubber mallet should separate the part.

#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Wing #Epoxy #Fiberglass #Composite

Making a fiberglass wingtip wheel for the glider wing.

1st photo - making the mold/form out of foam, with a 60mm diameter inline skate wheel in place. Note that the underside of the wing is covered with clear tape to protect it from epoxy when I lay up 7 plies of glass.

2nd photo - making the fabric template. A single piece of glass fabric (weave 7725 because it drapes so well over various curves and corners) will make the final part, but there will be an overlap along the trailing edge. I draped a piece of plastic over the foam form after it was hot-glued to the wing and then traced out the pattern, with some reference marks such as a center line.

3rd - Demolding the cured part by squeezing it so that it flexes/distorts a bit...and the epoxy at the base easily shears off from the waxed clear tape. (No need for hammer and wedges.)

4th - rough sanded final part.

#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Wing #Fiberglass #Epoxy #Composite

The flat cover panels don't fit/seal/seat well on the access ports because various bulkheads are laid on top of each other in some sections and stand tall compared to other parts of the surface.

What to do?

Mold a conforming seat, using micro (epoxy resin plus a healthy dose of glass microspheres.)

Because fiberglass is translucent, you can see that the white micro has been squeezed and now fills in the irregular steps/gaps.

I'm using a chisel (a wide flat piece of wood also works) to remove the excess micro before it cures hard.

Pro tip: don't forget to wax the back side of the removable panel, or it won't be removable.

#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY
#Fiberglass #CarbonFiber #Composite #Epoxy #Microspheres

Epoxers, gluers, DIYers, hear my call! Okay so I got these yellow silicone things called Paint Pucks that suction to the inside of your water container and give you a spot to clean brushes. GENIUS! LIFE CHANGING! (Trust me) Except the little pucker keeps falling off. I tried two-part epoxy (with great epoxy comes great epoxibility HAHA HA 🦗) but it didn't work. The epoxy stuck (observe the nipple) but didn't adhere to the silicone. 😩 Is there a glue solution here?