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#historybounding

2 posts2 participants1 post today
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Sini Tuulia

Have been leisurely working on this white linen walking skirt, circa 1900-1905. It's just a single layer of this thin and crisp linen, with machine flat felled seams, fairly narrow hips and an outward flare and sweep at the back. It's my usual construction, with a narrow placket, hooks and eyes and hooks and bars making it adjustable between corseted and not. Doesn't look like much now, hung to stretch out before I even the hem!

Close up photo of the back closure, a placket, on the centre back of a white linen skirt. Silver hooks and eyes have been sewn between the layers of the placket, only the active bits of the hardware visible, as well as some sewing thread affixing the hooks through all layers, quite subtle. There's a narrow waistband with three thread bars sewn at slightly different distances, one at exactly centre back, and two more one centimetre away from it, allowing for tighter and looser fit. Sini's hand holds onto the waistband. The linen is not infinitely fine, but nice looking and with some structure despite being wrinkly as heck.
A flat felled seam, with Sini's pink hand for scale. It has a touch of machine precision about it, the seam. Despite going on the bias on linen which is notoriously wibbly, it's very exactly top stitched, flat and nice. It's also quite narrow, only 9mm wide, and looks pretty lovely and neat in the crisp white fabric.
A slightly sad looking full garment image, with the skirt on a skirt hanger which is on a door. It's very narrow at the waist and significantly flares out at about mid hip, going to a sort of trumpet shape but with straight seams. It's quite wrinkled, the flat felled seams lend a tiny bit of practical mood to it, and the hem is entirely unfinished with threads coming off the weave at the raw edge. It needs to hand out like this for several days, for the fabric to let itself relax and settle to how it will want to, with gravity.
#Sewing#HistoricalFashion#HistoryBounding
Public
Sini Tuulia

Thoughts about Victorian and Edwardian fashions vis a vis the summer heat:

It's rather hot now in Finland, compared to how Finland usually is. Our buildings are also made to retain heat and only rich people and municipal buildings tend to have AC, so let's just say that it's warm. Anyway.
Because I'm the way I am I usually wear at least the layers of chemise, drawers, petticoat or two, skirt and blouse or shirt. Just in general, I enjoy it, even when it's been a round 25 Celsius inside.

#HistoricalFashion#HistoryBounding#Victorian
Continued thread
Public
Sini Tuulia

Didn't even notice I'd finished it at first, as I was so annoyed and the cats were doing crime... Anyway. Edwardian waist!
Here's a little gif of me wearing it just on top of what I was already wearing. Ideally it'd go on top of corset and layers!

#HistoryBounding#Sewing
Continued thread
Public
Sini Tuulia

Finished the flossing, and kept doing slightly different variations because I got a little bit bored. 😄 The main function of the flossing is to decoratively secure the ends of the bones inside their channels, so they'll not wiggle around so much, and also will take longer to work themselves through the fabric or the ribbon.
Also put on a couple more leaves because I wanted to.

A close up photo of embroidery called flossing applied onto the ends of synthetic whalebone in their boning channels, made of petersham ribbon. The corset is white, the tape is a light beige, and the embroidery thread is variations of oranges, yellows and beiges. It stands out as a different hue, but not offensively. It's just a very simple V shape, with the legs around the bone and the tip of it securing the end of the bone. Sini's fingers in the frame.
Another bit of flossing, this a sort of triangle and another triangle making a dovetail or chevron looking thing across the two boning channels side by side. The thread changes colours nicely along them, perhaps not perfectly but in a reasonable enough way. There's a bunch of the embroidery in frame, a bit of strange flowers as well.
A lovely little sprig in the same orange hued thread, with two leaves on it. Done in stem stitch, and with staggered blanket stitch for the leaves, it's simple but pretty effective. Next to it, on the right, is more of the same. It's sewn on top of a flat felled seam, with a boning channel and the petersham binding on the edge next to it. Not a great work of art, but it's there.
#Sewing#Embroidery#HistoryBounding
Public
Sini Tuulia

On the Edwardian waist belt thing: Topstitched the turned under hems down, trimmed them... Could hide the absolute mess of the embroidery and everything with a lining, but probably won't. 😄 Put on these enormous hooks because it's supposed to be very snug, and it's easier to hook things closed when the hooks are enormous... Now in the middle of sewing the thread bars. It's very Shaped™️

Photo of the insides of a shaped waist belt, sort of like an extremely short corset. This was just called a waist. The embroidery on it is extremely untidy, chaotic and a mess of snipped off and finished and started embroidery thread lengths, and some of it has been sewn on top of and through a covered and reinforced seam. The edges have been turned under just once, and top stitched down with extreme prejudice, as the fabric is a thick black cotton brocade.
Some rather large hooks of the hooks and eyes variety sewn onto the inside and sandwiched between a reinforcement linen tape and the actual belt edge. Robust and finished with a black coating of something, they look like you could hang something quite heavy off them without issue. The stitches attaching them are a functional but chaotic looking mess.
From the right side, the hooks on the left and entirely hidden by the lip of the waist, with the bars side on the right. Three bars have been sewn, corresponding to the hooks, and three more have been drawn on with white pencil. These look a lot nicer, as they are going to be much more or entirely visible, depending on which setting the waist is hooked to.
The belt thing laid out on a desk. Or attempted to, as it is extremely three dimensional, of very robust fabric, and absolutely refuses to lay flat. Like a sort of abstract bit of country road crumpled up by a bored god. Or something, it really does look a bit silly and like it doesn't know it's made of fabric. The embroidered flowers on it look rather nice, with the visible bits mostly finished now. Sini's pale hand and myriad silver rings hold onto the desk the thing is on, sewing tins in frame.
#Sewing#HistoryBounding
Continued thread
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Sini Tuulia

Well this is going to take forever.
I assembled most of the belt pieces and finished & reinforced the seams with this sturdy linen tape I had. Now attempting to embroider... Something on the front.
The hoop, the smallest I could find, is slowing me down but the end result is slightly neater than without a hoop, so we'll try I guess.

A close up photo of some dark tones embroidery being committed onto a nice black satin brocade coutil. In a variegated embroidery thread, two strands, tiny backstitch is being done on the outlines of an erratically shaped flower. The colours are dark purple, brown and gray, and are fairly subtle on the black fabric. From the scale of the fingertips also in frame, there is the tiniest possible embroidery hoop used, 9cm in diameter, and the backstitch is also fairly teeny.
Big looking pieces of the coutil seamed together, with seam allowances clipped and awaiting trimming. On one end, the centre back, there is a mustard yellow linen tape finishing the raw edges and reinforcing where hooks and bars will go. There's chalk scribbling denoting roughly where the actual edge goes, there is significant hem allowance.
On a piece marked SB for side back, there is on the trimmed seam allowances more of the linen tape. It is enclosing the raw edges of the seam on the inside. On the outside it is quite even and tidy looking, on the inside absolutely not! But it does the job. At the very waist line there are little clips cut into the linen tape, to allow it to smooth over the waist curve nicely. Cat hair is on everything.
#Sewing#Embroidery#HistoryBounding
Public
Sini Tuulia

Left to my own devices I've begun to attempt to make an Edwardian waist belt thing. I do have one, but it no longer fits me sans corset even with moving the closures so might as well make another one?

In theory it's very simple, just a shaped waistband with finished edges and some hooks & bars on the back, but we'll see how long it takes me to pattern, cut and sew one... Especially if I get distracted and put some embroidery on it or something. 😁

#Sewing#HistoryBounding
Public
Elena ``of Valhalla''

Filed under: maybe not the best idea ever, but it worked

I was wearing a cartridge pleated skirt with 4+ m of hem, of course over a corded petticoat, and heeled boots

of course the car was parked in such a way that the driver's side wasn't accessible, so I had to get on it from the passenger's side

and when I finally managed to get myself and all of my skirts in the driver's seat, I realized I had forgotten my glasses, and had to get out and in again.

(but it was easier than I expected when I found myself in front of the car and had a uh-oh moment)

#historyBounding#costumingPeopleProblems
Public
Sini Tuulia

Attempting to use up all this random black cotton lace I bought some time ago, and this mystery cotton fabric I found in my stash that I dislike the texture of... My current plan is that I have the framework of the guimpe (Edwardian garment that is like a top that is faking being a blouse, bodice or vest, to wear under open jackets) in this cotton and then will mostly cut it away to make it insertion lace instead, but... I hate this fabric. 😆

#Sewing#HistoryBounding
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Sini Tuulia

What I should be doing: Ironing, tidying up, feeding myself
What I've planned on doing but have been prevented by outside factors: Making reasonable and useful underwear and shirts
What I'm thinking of instead: "Do I have enough black cotton voile and random lace to make a black petticoat?"

#Sewing#HistoryBounding
Public
Elena ``of Valhalla''

I've just started handsewing a backpack, so I don't really need another handsewing project, right?

well…

the backpack is at a stage where I have to think, and today I'm not really able to think, and also it's somewhat heavy sewing, and sometimes I'd prefer to do something lighter, so my plan was to have a second project to alternate it with.

something quick and easy, right? of course not :D

what about dealing with 4.5 meters of lightweight fabric, hemming all of it and then bringing it down to 36ish cm? That's more like it :D

I've decided to make a shirt by following the instructions for a 16th century hemd, except in cotton voile, and a bit shorter so that I can tuck it into my jeans if I want.

katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/06…

Current stage: hemming all of the top edge.

#sewing#handsewing#historyBounding
Public
Sini Tuulia

I have put on the sleeves! Finished the inside seam with just the overlock stitch on my normal sewing machine, as I'm going to do the buttonholes and buttons by hand, and only have so much elbow. Looks like a blouse, now. The circa 1905 sleeves are so nice. I tried it on and it felt like wearing a cloud, also!

A top down view of a mostly finished looking white linen blouse on the convenient surface of a metal wire rack for clothes. The sleeves have been folded a bit to fit them into frame, like the shirt is clutching at its pearls. The nearly insubstantial, thin fabric flows down from the shoulder in puffy sleeves that narrow down to a simple cuff, there's three decorative tucks running down the front, and a rather fancy and full ruffle both sides of the button placket. A narrow standing collar and a shaped waistband with a sort of dovetail notch at the front complete the style, which looks fairly historical but also just on the edge of something you recognise as modern, being Edwardian. An air purifier cylinder, some quilts and warm toned parquet in the background.
#Sewing#HistoryBounding#Linen
Public
Sini Tuulia

A hat. It doesn't quite please me, but I refuse to buy anything new for it, and it's got the bee brooch on so I'm just gonna call it done! (Apologies for what looks like eye contact, I'm staring at the phone screen actually.)
It's really hard to make a hat that looks good from all angles, and I have once again struggled. But it's a hat, I finally used this gold trim I had and the bee, and that's enough.

GIF
A close up of the rosette, with the gold braid most prominent. It fans out towards the top of frame, glittering in black and gold. Its ends are artfully frayed and fan out below. In the middle is a little beads, sequins, pearl and faceted crystal brooch, in the feel if not the actual proportions of a bee, also gold, gray and black. Looks fairly intentional and appropriate with the decorations, up close. Black velvet and satin ribbons hang down below, providing a backdrop for the brooch.
The same hat, on a dinky little plastic wig stand, on a desk. It looks like a hat! There is a small line of small glass seed beads running the underside edge of the hat brim, mutedly sparkling against the black underside. The rosette thing looks fun and lush, with vague recollections towards tricorn decorations from the 18th century, but with a Victorian vibe. There's a bunch of cat hair on the hat.
#Millinery#HistoryBounding
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Sini Tuulia

The thing about petticoats is that you can easily wear one for ten years and it's nice, and another ten if you don't care about it being a bit banged up, and it's underwear so you don't... But heck does it take bloody forever to make a cute one!
Here pictured: Me thinking I did this to myself.

A photo of Sini sitting down at her desk, behind a Husqvarna sewing machine, an ocean of white ruffle and lace filling up the entire foreground of the photo. Some twelve metres of it, to be exact. Her eyes are cast down, onto the bit being sewn, both hands on the sewing plate delicately guiding the strips of fabric together. Pretty sunlight streams in from a window on the right, and also behind her. She's wearing a fancy but cosy white linen shirt with lace details and big puffed sleeves narrowing down onto a simple cuff, round eyeglasses, small tiger's eye pendant earrings and a black, gray and tan headscarf with botanical print, in a sort of working class woman at home can't be bothered to do her hair style. Her expression is of smooth contained exasperation. A vase with artificial flowers and ginkgo leaf branches in the background.
#Sewing#HistoryBounding
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